If the layout leaves you with less than half a full tile at the tub deck, move your mark on the wall towards the tub deck enough that the first tile up from the tub is a full one and half a tile or more ends the wall up at the top. Determine how many tiles it takes to get from your mark on the wall down to the tub deck. ![]() Divide that number in half and mark that number on the wall. Start by measuring the height of the back wall, which is the longest, from the tub deck to the top of where the last tile will be. Grab a 4-foot level, a marker or pencil that will show up on the waterproofing layer, and a measuring tape. Step 5: Plan the layout vertically firstĬoming up with an accurate game plan now makes the tiling go much faster. Once the first coat is dry, apply the second the same way. ![]() Then use a paint roller to fill in the field, making sure you cover the heads of the screws. Use a disposable brush first to pay attention to corners where water might settle, and the seams between the backer board panels. It applies like wall paint, and you can find it at the home center or tile shop. Once the thinset is dry, cover the cement backer board with two coats of a roll-on waterproofing membrane. Pay attention to avoid an excessive build up of thinset at the joints, which creates a hump that will telegraph through the tile. Then press fiberglass mesh tape into the wet thinset before smoothing it out with a putty knife. Mix up enough thinset mortar, which you can find in a tub or a bag at the home center, and use a putty knife to force it into the gaps where the backer board sections meet. Use ceramic coated screws, usually on the shelf near the backer board, to fasten the pieces in place. Shim the backer board up off the tub surround by about 1/4 inch, which leaves enough room to caulk the gap between the tub and the tile along all three walls. ![]() Use a hole saw or a reciprocating saw to cut around any exposed plumbing parts like the valve, tub spout, and showerhead. Pick a backer board that’s the same thickness as the remaining drywall in the shower surround so the transition between the two materials will be seamless.Ĭut the cementitious backer board with a utility knife and a straight edge-similar to how you’d trim drywall. Typically, you'll tile to the showerhead or just above it on all three shower walls. Step 3: Add new backer boardīuy enough backer board to extend from the tub deck up to the height of the showerhead on all three walls. If you have fiberglass bat insulation, which is relativity inexpensive, replace it with some fresh insulation. If you notice any mold on the insulation, behind it, or on the studs, you should call in a professional to remediate it. Have a look at the three walls around the shower. It’s unlikely that area will get soaked in water. ![]() Use a reciprocating saw and cut away the walls around the tub, but leave any drywall above the showerhead. In either case, it’s best to remove it and start with a clean slab of cement board, often called backer board, because it’s impervious to water, it's stable, and it bonds well tile. If it’s an older home, you might find drywall behind the tile or, in a newer home, cement board. Work on one wall at a time, top-down, disposing of the debris as you go. Wearing safety glasses, a mask, and gloves, use a pry bar and a hammer to pull off the existing tiles. (Image credit: Juliet Murphy) Step 1: DemoĬover the tub with a heavy canvas drop cloth or a piece of plywood.
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